Welcome to Sri Remote Toys Blog

Welcome to Tamworth's RC Model Shop. www.sriremotetoys.co.uk If you're interested in Nitro, Electric/Brushless or petrol Remote Control cars then take a look at our site, we stock brands from top manufacturers including Traxxas, HPI Racing, Tamiya, Vaterra, Losi, and Acme to name but a few. So if your looking for RC Nitro Buggy's, RC Nitro Cars, Rockcrawlers, RC Build it yourself kits or even the latest Brushless electric models then Sri Remote Toys is the website for you. Spare parts, upgrades and accessories are available for all the models we stock. On our blog we're hoping to share news, info, updates and generally anything RC related.

Showing posts with label Nitro. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Nitro. Show all posts

Wednesday, 23 November 2011

Ansmann Racing

Deuce-E Brushless RTR 1:8 Buggy

The RTR version of the Deuce-E is equipped with a high-performance brushless motor. So if you want to get your first taste of the road or the racetrack, with a brushless model, this is the car for you. And its far from over once you have tasted blood. The Deuce is the perfect start.



Virus 2 Nitro Buggy, big block .28 Engine
 
We're entering the next phase of the highly contagious Virus epidemic. Now the "Big Block" version of the successful nitro model offers even more muscle. The built-in 4.6ccm engine lets the power unfold. Two built-in 6kg MG servos make it possible as they deliver the best performance under the harshest conditions! Equipped with hardened drive shafts and highperformance differentials, jumps and hard landings are a breeze for the Virus 2.0 "Big Block". The 2.93hp engine accelerates this 4WD model to speeds of over 80km/h. Get infected again and watch the Virus spread like lightning.


Mad Monkey Buggy

 Mad Monkey is a prime example of a perfectly executed modern RC car. The centred motor and transverse battery pack distribute weight ideally and provide the vehicle with the best possible traction. The 2WD rear axle drivetrain efficiently transfers power to the ground, guaranteeing optimum acceleration. Thanks to heavy-duty oil shocks it's ready to take on any jump and can handle corners flawlessly. Its powerful steering servo makes Mad Monkey one agile and nimble machine. It's the ideal off-road sportster. Optimally balanced weight distribution, steady traction, a high-performance brushed motor and a powerful steering servo-that's Mad Monkey! The perfect vehicle model for you!

Here at Sri Remote Toys we are official stockists of the popular Ansmann Racing range, including the above models and also Ansmann Mad Rat, Ansmann Vapor, Ansmann Virus to name just a few, we stock Ready to Run models and the Kit versions, and there's no need to worry about spares as we stock these to.










Monday, 14 November 2011

Updated HPI Trophy Truggy

 
The HPI Trophy range of off-road racers has been updated with the latest in 2.4GHz radio technology, waterproof servos and a waterproof receiver & battery compartment! 

That's right: one of our most popular nitro kits ever now has been upgraded to make it a performer just about anywhere!

The Trophy Truggy 4.6 is the perfect way to get into nitro 1/8 truggies! A 'truggy' is part truck with its big tyres and pick-up truck style bodyshell, and it's also part buggy with the main drivetrain components, chassis and suspension being taken directly from or derived from a 1/8th scale rallycross buggy chassis. Truggies are a popular racing class around the world! This kit has got everything you need for anything you want to do. For bashing fun and big-air stunts, it has a durable aluminium chassis, braces and shock towers, and for race track performance and tuning the Trophy is equipped with the amazingly powerful Nitro Star F4.6 HPI engine, angle-pin racing tyres, oil-filled shocks, turnbuckles and plenty of tuning adjustment possibilities.


In Stock Now

Saturday, 29 October 2011

Advanced Maintenance Guide for RC Cars

Nitro Radio Controlled Car Maintenance
If you are serious about the hobby and want to keep your car well maintained you should maintain the following items:

General Cleanliness 
A clean car is a happy car! Not only that, but you will be able to spot problems easier on a clean car than on a dirty car, and also while cleaning it, you can give the car and body a quick look to see if anything is wrong. Use a large natural-hair bristle brush (from a hardware or paint store) to remove dust from the chassis and inside of the body. Use some denatured alcohol or motor spray to clean off tyre and asphalt marks from the outside of the body.

Differentials 
These let the outside wheels in a turn spin faster than the inside wheels, so the car can maintain the proper path when turning.
For cars using gear differentials, you should check the areas around the diff shafts for grease leaks every 20 to 25 runs. If you see a leak, you need to take apart the diff and put more grease in it, and reassemble it carefully.
If you run a car with ball differentials, you should check the diffs for grittiness every 5 runs or so. To do this, put the car on a stand so the wheels can rotate freely. Hold the spur gear and slowly turn a wheel. Try to feel if the action is smooth or 'gritty'. If it feels gritty or the wheel is difficult to turn, you need to rebuild that diff. Now check the other diff using the same technique. You can use diff rings and thrust washers twice - just flip them over to a smooth side. If you don't have a smooth side on the rings or washers, you need to buy new ones. We don't recommend using diff balls and thrust balls through more than one rebuild - you should replace these each time you rebuild a ball differential. Carbide diff balls will last longer under the same circumstances as regular diff balls.

Shocks 
Shock absorbers soak up bumps in the track and let the tyres maintain constant contact with the racing surface; they also let the tyres dip into depressions in the track. If you are a 'backyard basher' or casual hobbyist who doesn't race, you should give your shocks a look over before each time you run the car. If you see any leaks, you need to rebuild your shocks. When rebuilding shocks, you should always use brand new o-rings. Never re-use old o-rings!
Racers should check their shocks before and after each run. Any leaks mean it's time for a rebuild. Shocks on a racing R/C car should be rebuilt or given a good look every ten or fifteen runs. Be sure you write down what shock oil you are using in the car! Either write it on the shock cap in a fine-point permanent marker or use a Setup Sheet . When rebuilding shocks, you should always use brand new o-rings. Never re-use old o-rings!

Drive Shafts 
These transfer the power from the engine to the wheels so are under a lot of stress. Whether you race indoors or outdoors, you should check the shafts before the day's racing begins for any bends or wear on the ends. Replace any that need it or consider upgrading to our CVD ones under upgrades.

Drive Cups 
These connect the drive shafts to the wheels and diffs. They are held on by grub screws and making sure these screws are tight is very important. Use strong threadlock on any loose ones. If a drive cup screw comes loose and you do not notice it could damage the differential and other components.

Bushings 
Used on most rotating parts on sport or budget kits, bushings are better than direct contact between the parts, but not as good as ball bearings. Bushings don't need any maintenance to speak of, just keep them clean and grease them when they are first installed.

Ball Bearings 
Used on most rotating parts on pro-level kits, bearings provide a way to eliminate almost all of the resistance that bushings have and serve to make the car quicker overall. For kits with the standard shielded bearings (metal shields on the side), just brush them off every now and then. You may want to put a very light dab of oil and let it soak into the bearing, but for the most part just brushing the dirt off the bearing is fine.

Gear Mesh 
The relationship between the primary drive gear (pinion or clutchbell) and the secondary drive gear (spur gear). A tight gear mesh (the spur cannot 'wiggle' when installed) has too much friction and will cause the motor or engine to work too hard and could melt the spur gear from the friction. A loose gear mesh (the spur can move significantly) will probably cause the pinion gear to strip the spur gear, ruining the spur gear.
To set a proper gear mesh on electric cars, use a small piece of normal notebook or copier paper and put it in between the pinion and spur, and tighten the motor onto the motor mount. Remove the paper, and that is how much gear mesh you should have. For Nitro cars, you can get away with a little bit looser gear mesh than on electric cars because the gear teeth are much larger. Use the same technique described above, but fold the paper once before you put it in between the gears.

One-Way Diffs 
Many racers do not lubricate the one-way differentials as often as they should. Every few runs, you should take the one-way diff out and remove the gear shafts to inspect the bearing. If there is no hint of grease on the bearings you should use a very small amount of the blue-capped grease that comes with the one-way diff (the amount of grease that would end up on a toothpick or pin if you dipped it in the grease) and re-lubricate the one-way bearings inside the main diff body. This will help prevent a major cause of one-way diff failures. Crashing and no lubricant are the main reasons why the one-way bearings in the one-way diff break.

Wednesday, 10 August 2011

Hobao Hyper ST Racing Truggy







1/8th RTR Hyper ST Truggy

Designed specifically with Truggy racing in-mind this new design is sure to take the expanding Truggy scene by storm.
This ST is based on the 1/8th rallycross buggy platform, specifically the competition winning HoBao Hyper buggy range. Looking at it you can see a combination of both the Hyper 7 and 8 parts in there, as well as some brand new touches designed specifically for the truggy racing scene.

First version released is the a Ready-To-Rip version, pre-assembled with MacStar .28 engine, radio and 9kg steering servo and 6kg throttle/brake.
The tuned alloy silencer bolsters the motors performance and the lightweight clutch offers good grip for maximum power transfer.

I've got the pro version of this truggy and can recommend it for build quality and durability

Saturday, 6 August 2011

HoBao Hyper 7 TQ Sport

 
Sri Remote Toys now stock this great model.  The best just got faster! Those that have no desire to conform with the rules have been beating our door down for more power from their Hyper 7 TQ's. Well we listened and finally badgered HoBao to plant their all new Mach 28 powerhouse to the chassis. The result is the jaw-droppingly good HoBao Hyper 7 TQ 28 RTR Buggy.

Now remember this ain't legal for BRCA races...but who cares! Finished with hot red accessories, the Hyper 7 TQ28 will fulfill your thirst for speed.

With the TQ ready-to-run features, the 28 represents superb value for money and is sure to be a sought after.

Hyper 7 TQ 28 Features:
  • 3-channel HoBao 2.4ghz radio system
  • Mach 28 6-port pull start engine
  • Twin Brake discs
  • Custom Pre-painted bodyshell
  • Pre-glued tyres on Spilt spoke wheels
  • Front and rear chassis braces
  • 3-shoe clutch
  • Laydown airfilter
  • Hard anodised chassis with side skirts
  • 3.5mm Shock shafts
  • New gun metal anodising
  • Rear anti-roll bar
  • Front universal driveshafts
  • Full range of racing options

Friday, 7 January 2011

GV CAGE RC NITRO/ELECTRIC BUGGY



GV CAGE
  • The CAGE, A High Performance Off Road Buggy
  • Engine - Powerful Force 32 Pull Start Engine
  • Radio - 2 Channel (included)
  • Brakes - Powerful Twin Disk Brake System
  • Wheel base - 320mm
  • Length - 345mm
  • Ground clearance - 40mm
  • Weight - 3920grams

      Are you looking for an off-roader with these attributes:
    Fun
    Fast
    Rugged
    Fast
    Reliable
    Adrenalin packed
    Powerful
    Fast
    Go almost anywhere
    Not for the fainthearted
    Fast
    Well, you really should look closely at the GV CAGE. It sounds just what you're looking for . and more!
    The GV Cage is available in i.c. & Electric and both come with hair-raising performance built in!
    The Electric Cage comes with a massive, some say over powered, Brushless motor that will run on 11.1v batteries for fun and sport use or use a 14.8v battery for an incredible adrenalin rush of pure power! The Brushless motor is kept cool with a large heat sink and twin cooling fan units. The ESC is fully programmable and also has a heat sink and cooling fan built in.
    The i.c. Cage comes with the massive Force 32 engine which is renowned for its high power and reliability. The engine is accompanied by a matching tuned pipe to help optimise it's power delivery.
    Both the CAGE models come with treaded tyres which suit tarmac, grass and loose surfaces alike. A 4WD drive system. Powerful braking system. H/D shock absorbers. Rugged, adjustable suspension. And both model are very addictive one the wheels start turning!




Thursday, 9 December 2010

Advanced Maintenance Guide for RC Cars


Nitro Radio Controlled Car Maintenance

If you are serious about the hobby and want to keep your car well maintained you should maintain the following items:

General Cleanliness 
A clean car is a happy car! Not only that, but you will be able to spot problems easier on a clean car than on a dirty car, and also while cleaning it, you can give the car and body a quick look to see if anything is wrong. Use a large natural-hair bristle brush (from a hardware or paint store) to remove dust from the chassis and inside of the body. Use some denatured alcohol or motor spray to clean off tyre and asphalt marks from the outside of the body.

Differentials 
These let the outside wheels in a turn spin faster than the inside wheels, so the car can maintain the proper path when turning.
For cars using gear differentials, you should check the areas around the diff shafts for grease leaks every 20 to 25 runs. If you see a leak, you need to take apart the diff and put more grease in it, and reassemble it carefully.
If you run a car with ball differentials, you should check the diffs for grittiness every 5 runs or so. To do this, put the car on a stand so the wheels can rotate freely. Hold the spur gear and slowly turn a wheel. Try to feel if the action is smooth or 'gritty'. If it feels gritty or the wheel is difficult to turn, you need to rebuild that diff. Now check the other diff using the same technique. You can use diff rings and thrust washers twice - just flip them over to a smooth side. If you don't have a smooth side on the rings or washers, you need to buy new ones. We don't recommend using diff balls and thrust balls through more than one rebuild - you should replace these each time you rebuild a ball differential. Carbide diff balls will last longer under the same circumstances as regular diff balls.

Shocks 
Shock absorbers soak up bumps in the track and let the tyres maintain constant contact with the racing surface; they also let the tyres dip into depressions in the track. If you are a 'backyard basher' or casual hobbyist who doesn't race, you should give your shocks a look over before each time you run the car. If you see any leaks, you need to rebuild your shocks. When rebuilding shocks, you should always use brand new o-rings. Never re-use old o-rings!
Racers should check their shocks before and after each run. Any leaks mean it's time for a rebuild. Shocks on a racing R/C car should be rebuilt or given a good look every ten or fifteen runs. Be sure you write down what shock oil you are using in the car! Either write it on the shock cap in a fine-point permanent marker or use a Setup Sheet . When rebuilding shocks, you should always use brand new o-rings. Never re-use old o-rings!

Drive Shafts 
These transfer the power from the engine to the wheels so are under a lot of stress. Whether you race indoors or outdoors, you should check the shafts before the day's racing begins for any bends or wear on the ends. Replace any that need it or consider upgrading to our CVD ones under upgrades.

Drive Cups 
These connect the drive shafts to the wheels and diffs. They are held on by grub screws and making sure these screws are tight is very important. Use strong threadlock on any loose ones. If a drive cup screw comes loose and you do not notice it could damage the differential and other components.

Bushings 
Used on most rotating parts on sport or budget kits, bushings are better than direct contact between the parts, but not as good as ball bearings. Bushings don't need any maintenance to speak of, just keep them clean and grease them when they are first installed.

Ball Bearings 
Used on most rotating parts on pro-level kits, bearings provide a way to eliminate almost all of the resistance that bushings have and serve to make the car quicker overall. For kits with the standard shielded bearings (metal shields on the side), just brush them off every now and then. You may want to put a very light dab of oil and let it soak into the bearing, but for the most part just brushing the dirt off the bearing is fine.

Gear Mesh 
The relationship between the primary drive gear (pinion or clutchbell) and the secondary drive gear (spur gear). A tight gear mesh (the spur cannot 'wiggle' when installed) has too much friction and will cause the motor or engine to work too hard and could melt the spur gear from the friction. A loose gear mesh (the spur can move significantly) will probably cause the pinion gear to strip the spur gear, ruining the spur gear.
To set a proper gear mesh on electric cars, use a small piece of normal notebook or copier paper and put it in between the pinion and spur, and tighten the motor onto the motor mount. Remove the paper, and that is how much gear mesh you should have. For Nitro cars, you can get away with a little bit looser gear mesh than on electric cars because the gear teeth are much larger. Use the same technique described above, but fold the paper once before you put it in between the gears.

One-Way Diffs 
Many racers do not lubricate the one-way differentials as often as they should. Every few runs, you should take the one-way diff out and remove the gear shafts to inspect the bearing. If there is no hint of grease on the bearings you should use a very small amount of the blue-capped grease that comes with the one-way diff (the amount of grease that would end up on a toothpick or pin if you dipped it in the grease) and re-lubricate the one-way bearings inside the main diff body. This will help prevent a major cause of one-way diff failures. Crashing and no lubricant are the main reasons why the one-way bearings in the one-way diff break.