Merry Christmas & Happy New Year

SRI Remote Toys would like to wish all its customers a very merry Christmas & Happy New Year.

We would also like to thank all at UPS for there fantastic delivery service they have provided during the adverse weather conditions we have experienced over the last few weeks.

Traxxas E-Revo, Brushless with 2.4GHz

The World's Most Powerful, Ready-To-Race®
Brushless Electric Monster Truck!

Built For Brushless

What Traxxas have to say...

We built the E-Revo for 6S brushless power right from the start. For other companies, brushless ready means just making some nominal provisions for battery and motor installation and letting the aftermarket develop the upgrades necessary to make it survive. Not Traxxas. We heard the call for more power so E-Revo was tested tough for durability with brutal 6S LiPo power and intense custom wound brushless motors. For the uninitiated, this extreme 65+mph motor and battery combination is ordinarily a predictable recipe for a box full of twisted and mangled parts. Not so with the E-Revo Brushless Edition. E-Revo’s driveline has been engineered to endure the kind of horsepower and punishment that’s possible with today’s motor and battery technology. It looks factory because it is factory, complete with a separate motor plate for clean, low-slung single motor installation.

This truck is the business, check our website for all technical details and you'll be impressed just as we were with the Traxxas E-Revo Brushless truck

Advanced Maintenance Guide for RC Cars

Nitro Radio Controlled Car Maintenance

If you are serious about the hobby and want to keep your car well maintained you should maintain the following items:

General Cleanliness 

A clean car is a happy car! Not only that, but you will be able to spot problems easier on a clean car than on a dirty car, and also while cleaning it, you can give the car and body a quick look to see if anything is wrong. Use a large natural-hair bristle brush (from a hardware or paint store) to remove dust from the chassis and inside of the body. Use some denatured alcohol or motor spray to clean off tyre and asphalt marks from the outside of the body.

Differentials 

These let the outside wheels in a turn spin faster than the inside wheels, so the car can maintain the proper path when turning.

For cars using gear differentials, you should check the areas around the diff shafts for grease leaks every 20 to 25 runs. If you see a leak, you need to take apart the diff and put more grease in it, and reassemble it carefully.

If you run a car with ball differentials, you should check the diffs for grittiness every 5 runs or so. To do this, put the car on a stand so the wheels can rotate freely. Hold the spur gear and slowly turn a wheel. Try to feel if the action is smooth or 'gritty'. If it feels gritty or the wheel is difficult to turn, you need to rebuild that diff. Now check the other diff using the same technique. You can use diff rings and thrust washers twice - just flip them over to a smooth side. If you don't have a smooth side on the rings or washers, you need to buy new ones. We don't recommend using diff balls and thrust balls through more than one rebuild - you should replace these each time you rebuild a ball differential. Carbide diff balls will last longer under the same circumstances as regular diff balls.

Shocks 

Shock absorbers soak up bumps in the track and let the tyres maintain constant contact with the racing surface; they also let the tyres dip into depressions in the track. If you are a 'backyard basher' or casual hobbyist who doesn't race, you should give your shocks a look over before each time you run the car. If you see any leaks, you need to rebuild your shocks. When rebuilding shocks, you should always use brand new o-rings. Never re-use old o-rings!

Racers should check their shocks before and after each run. Any leaks mean it's time for a rebuild. Shocks on a racing R/C car should be rebuilt or given a good look every ten or fifteen runs. Be sure you write down what shock oil you are using in the car! Either write it on the shock cap in a fine-point permanent marker or use a Setup Sheet . When rebuilding shocks, you should always use brand new o-rings. Never re-use old o-rings!

Drive Shafts 

These transfer the power from the engine to the wheels so are under a lot of stress. Whether you race indoors or outdoors, you should check the shafts before the day's racing begins for any bends or wear on the ends. Replace any that need it or consider upgrading to our CVD ones under upgrades.

Drive Cups 

These connect the drive shafts to the wheels and diffs. They are held on by grub screws and making sure these screws are tight is very important. Use strong threadlock on any loose ones. If a drive cup screw comes loose and you do not notice it could damage the differential and other components.

Bushings 

Used on most rotating parts on sport or budget kits, bushings are better than direct contact between the parts, but not as good as ball bearings. Bushings don't need any maintenance to speak of, just keep them clean and grease them when they are first installed.

Ball Bearings 

Used on most rotating parts on pro-level kits, bearings provide a way to eliminate almost all of the resistance that bushings have and serve to make the car quicker overall. For kits with the standard shielded bearings (metal shields on the side), just brush them off every now and then. You may want to put a very light dab of oil and let it soak into the bearing, but for the most part just brushing the dirt off the bearing is fine.

Gear Mesh 

The relationship between the primary drive gear (pinion or clutchbell) and the secondary drive gear (spur gear). A tight gear mesh (the spur cannot 'wiggle' when installed) has too much friction and will cause the motor or engine to work too hard and could melt the spur gear from the friction. A loose gear mesh (the spur can move significantly) will probably cause the pinion gear to strip the spur gear, ruining the spur gear.

To set a proper gear mesh on electric cars, use a small piece of normal notebook or copier paper and put it in between the pinion and spur, and tighten the motor onto the motor mount. Remove the paper, and that is how much gear mesh you should have. For Nitro cars, you can get away with a little bit looser gear mesh than on electric cars because the gear teeth are much larger. Use the same technique described above, but fold the paper once before you put it in between the gears.

One-Way Diffs 

Many racers do not lubricate the one-way differentials as often as they should. Every few runs, you should take the one-way diff out and remove the gear shafts to inspect the bearing. If there is no hint of grease on the bearings you should use a very small amount of the blue-capped grease that comes with the one-way diff (the amount of grease that would end up on a toothpick or pin if you dipped it in the grease) and re-lubricate the one-way bearings inside the main diff body. This will help prevent a major cause of one-way diff failures. Crashing and no lubricant are the main reasons why the one-way bearings in the one-way diff break.

How To Tune A Nitro Engine

The first thing you should check is to make sure that when you pull full throttle the carburetor is fully opening. If you take the air filter off and pull the trigger all the way back it should open completely. You should always keep the engine within its intended operating temperature. Going above these could and most likely will cause damage. As you lean the engine out, it will run faster and faster till you hit a point where it will overheat. When this has happened it will start to stutter, hesitate, or even stall. The engine will over heat very quickly when the mixture has been set too lean. Check the engine often when leaning it out to make sure its not overheating.

The simplest way to test for over heating is to put a drop of water or spite on top of the engine head. If it boils away instantly shut the engine down and let it cool off. If it takes 5-7 seconds for the water to evaporate away, then the engine is running at a good temperature.

When you have the mixture set correctly you will hear the engine running smoothly and have a strong-sounding high pitch when you let it wind out. Running the engine a little "rich" is always a lot better then running it to "lean".

Once again: Lean = less fuel
Rich = more fuel

The high-speed mixture will affect the way engine runs at mid and high R.P.M.s. This is the main needle that you will adjust the most. Once you get you engine running good, this will be the only needle that you should have to mess with.

Run the car on a smooth flat surface with enough room to let the model get up to top speed. Keep track of the speed as you slowly (1/8 of a turn at a time) lean the engine. You can lean it as long as you continue to have thick blue smoke coming out of the pipe. If the engine gets up to top speed and looses power most likely you have "leaned" it too much. You want the high-speed mixture to be lean enough to get good power and still keep the engine cool. Use a temperature gun or the water test to check the temperature of your engine. Remember, you want the engine to run around 270' or water to sit on the head for around 5-7 seconds.

How To Run In Your RC Nitro Car

The engine has to be Run-in before full-time use. It is very important that this procedure is carried out. Not doing so will shorten the life and reduce the overall performance of your engine.

There are two different methods people use to run their engines in. The first one is simpler and is also safer in that you are less likely to burn your clutch out or something if you get it wrong. With the second method it is more complicated but if done correctly will give a little more life to your engine.

To run your car in, take your finished model and roll it back and forth to be certain the car’s wheels can turn freely. Place the car in a position so that the wheels are off the ground, for example on a heavy box or brick, and follow the starting procedure which can be found on our help page. Use good quality fuel with around 10 - 20% mix. Its best to break-in the engine using the same nitro content as you plan to use for everyday use. The engine should be broken-in on a smooth hard surface. For a boat engines, try to find smooth calm water. Try to avoid breaking-in the engine on very hot, or humid days. Ensure that the idle speed is not to high or else you will burn your clutch out or snap the con rod, and also make sure that the brake is not applied.

Always break-in your engine without the body on the car, you want as much airflow as you can get to keep the engine cool. Do not run the engine too lean or you will over heat it and cause permanent damage to the internal components of the engine.

It is normal for the engine to consume a lot of fuel during break-in. This is because you are running it "richer" than you normally would to keep the engine cool and to flush out the engine as the parts "seat" themselves. Because of the richer than normal setting the performance of the engine will be limited. After break-in, you will then lean it out to gain performance.

It's always a good idea to get an extra glow plug (short, cold plug). It is normal to have to replace it after break-in because of the deposits left on in from the break-in process. Glow plugs are a normal item that needs replacing. Because they have such a huge influence on they way your engine runs it best to always have a few spares on hand.

Method 1:

Once it starts and is idleing slowly place it on the ground and drive it slowly on a flat surface. For the first use do not let the engine run for more then 3 minutes. Carry on running slowly for short periods until you have gone through 2 - 3 tanks of fuel.

Method 2:

With method 2 start the car in the same way but when it starts instead of placing it on the ground keep it off the ground and let the engine idle through 2 - 3 tanks of fuel. Let the engine cool down in between each tank and lean the engine off as needed. Do NOT rev the engine while it is running in and be careful not to lean it off to much or else you will burn your engine which would not be covered by the warranty.

Do not over accelerate at all during this procedure, as it can severly damage the engine. After each idling time, let the car rest for about 10 minutes between each tank. Running in makes sure that the engine is operating correctly before you take it out for a proper run. Never accelerate the engine while all four wheels are off the ground, as this will break the conrod or other important components.

One important thing to remember when breaking in a new engine, it will appear to not run correctly. It will stall, operate very inconsistently, and may even foul glow plugs. Don't get frustrated with it. Just keep working with it and it will become a smooth running engine. These experiences are what can be called "break-in pains". Every new engine has to go through this. When you get the engine started, be sure to keep it running by giving it throttle when it sounds like it's going to stall. Pulling the throttle quickly can also stall the engine. After a couple of tanks your patience will pay off with a very strong, reliable running engine.

Acme Condor 1/10 Scale Nitro Buggy Kit (Self Build it Yourself)

 Christmas Best Seller Year After Year

By popular demand we are now stocking a range of unbuilt nitro radio controlled car kits for those who enjoy building models as much as using them! Forget lego etc, these self build kits provide hours of fun and when they are finished they are actually fun to use! For the hours of use and enjoyment you will get from first building and then racing them these kits are amazing value for money. If you are new to nitro rc cars then buying a self build kit is a great way to learn about the hobby and see how they work before going out and racing them. We sell some of these models to schools as they are educational and a great introduction to mechanics and engineering. There is no other product on the market that gives such a complete all in the box kit like this.

Unlike other self build kits on the market that only include the basic chassis and none of the electronics etc, these kits include everything needed to complete and even the tools you need to build them! Team Infinity 18 engine, pistol type radio equipment, grease, oil etc - everything is there. Construction will take around 8 - 12 hours on average and is recommended for ages 14+  Visit our website for more information and great value rc cars.

Before Using An RC Nitro Car

Before using any RC nitro model it is important that you check the following:

* Receiver Battery
* Range check (Stand a distance away from the model and make sure it is responding to the radio control correctly. Ideally do this with someone else so you can stand as far away as you want to use the model.
* Radio Battery
* Glow Plug is tight and glow start is fully charged
* Ensure engine flywheel is tight and tighten if needed (important or the  flywheel will wear away)
* Loctite/tighten any loose nuts, screws or bolts. ie: set screws, engine mount screws, wheel nuts, etc
* Clutch-bell and Spur Gear mesh (important or you will strip your gears)
* Pullstart engine screws
* Nylon ties for exhaust
* Clean & Re-Oil or replace Foam Air Filter element
* Ensure all servo & throttle linkage is straight at 90 degrees & in proper alignment when the radio equipment is turned on. Adjust if needed.
* Ensure fuel system is free of obstruction, line pinches, dirt & leaks
* Clean entire car after every tank - watch for sand, rocks, mud, debris or anything that will hinder proper operation and maintenance.

The above maintenance should be observed ideally after every run.

The main adjustment screw would have been pre-set at the factory and we would have double checked it to make sure it is correct for running the engine in. In 99% of cases this screw will not need touching until after you have run the engine in if you wish to fine tune it. If you do loose the starting position of the screw or want to check it then the top of the screw should be just 1 - 2 mm below the top of the screw casing.

Traxxas VXL RC Rally Car

The throttle is wide open. All four tires howl as they slide across the asphalt. You finesse the input, work the steering wheel. Now you’re perfectly balanced between slip and grip as you carve through the turn sideways, emerging from clouds of tire smoke to scream on to the next corner. This is asphalt rally racing gymkhana style, and the Traxxas Rally VXL is the only R/C vehicle designed to give you the experience of hanging it out in the turns and powering down the straights with the perfect blend of speed, power, and traction. The specially tuned suspension and tire compounds let you ride the slip angle with thrilling precision, putting your skills to the test as you master the art, right in your own driveway. The Velineon^® brushless power system combines with 4-wheel drive to give the Traxxas Rally VXL road-ripping muscle that rivals the full-scale racers. Officially licensed BFGoodrich^® rally tires deliver authentic style and performance, and the tough, wide-body design features cutting-edge graphics that could only come from Traxxas. Get ready for a new kind of R/C driving excitement with the Traxxas Rally VXL. For more info take a look at our website.

Nitro Radio Controlled Car Tips & Tricks.

There's lots of small jobs that you can do on a nitro radio controlled car to make it run better and last longer. Following some of these easy to follow tips and see great improvements.

1. The antenna tube is quite brittle when new. If you take the antenna tube and boil it in a pan of water for a few minutes it will become soft and flexible. It will be easier to fit and if you flip your model it will not break!

2. Glueing your antenna tube to the mounting will ensure it does not come loose and fly off when racing.

3. Take a cable tie and thread it through the fuel tank lid to aid opening the tank lid whilst using.

4. Use silicone bathroom sealant to seal your receiver box and any gaps where leads are exposed. Apply a small amount of sealant to the bottom of your receiver box lid before screwing the casing back down. Also apply some to the underside of the chassis top plate where the servo and switch leads enter the receiver box lid.

5. Tape your 4 cell receiver pack batteries up with some insulation tape. Wrapping a small amount of tape around your battery pack will ensure they do not vibrate loose and cause you to loose control.

6. When doing a jump you can actually control the car in the air. If it starts to nose dive give a quick blast on the throttle to level it out and if the car starts to climb like it is going to land on it's back wheels applying the brake will correct it.

7. If your aerial is to long and a lot is coming out of the top of the tube do NOT cut it. Instead use a small amount of fuel tubing over the aerial tube to hold the aerial neatly and securely to the outside of the tube.

8. Cut tiny holes into your body shell next to the body mount holes and feed a short piece of fishing wire through the hole. Knot the end going through the shell so it can not come out and then tie the other end to your body clips. No more lost body clips!

9. If the seal on your fuel tank is broken or you want it closed more securely attach an elastic band to the rear of the tank, feed it under the tank and up the front and attach it to the handle on the lid. As the band is stretched it will be constantly pulling the lid closed.

10. The steering links come attached to the bottom of the outer fixings. By removing the screw and attaching from the top should give a more stable car over the rough.

11. If you are getting grip role and your model flips when you go round a corner snip the outside tread off the tire to reduce the grip and make it slide instead.

12. If you are using an off road model (such as the Condor or Conquistador) on long grass screw down the threaded collar on the shock body to increase the ride height.

13. Make sure there are no leaks around the engine and manifold which would decrease engine power and performance. Use high-temperature gasket or silicon sealants (such as Hylomar from Halfords) around areas such as the carburetor to the engine, the exhaust manifold to the exhaust port of the engine, and the back plate or pull-start mechanism against the engine block.

Understanding LiPo Batteries for RC Models

LiPo batteries are very different from previous generation batteries and understanding how they work, and especially how to charge them, is the key to getting the best performance.

Series
Individual Lithium Polymer cells have a nominal voltage of 3.7 volts (vs. 1.2volts per cell for Ni-Cds or NiMHs). Cells are wired in series to give the following pack voltages:
1 cell = 3.7 volts
2 cells in series = 7.4 volts
3 cells in series = 11.1 volts

 Parallel

Unlike Ni-Cd and Ni-MH batteries that self-discharge when wired in parallel, LiPo cells can be hooked up, charged and discharged in parallel with no detrimental effect. Wiring two LiPo cells in parallel doubles the capacity (more run time), plus an important advantage of wiring in parallel is that each cell only sees half the total current.


3S 2P
A battery pack that has three cells in series (giving 11.1 volts) and 2 of these 3-cell packs are wired in parallel is commonly referred to as a 3S, 2P (3 series, 2 parallel).


C Rating
LiPo cells are also commonly given a C or current rating. This is the maximum average recommended discharge current for the cell. For example, the VP2150/20C packs have a 20C rating. To determine the maximum recommended discharge rate multiply the capacity times the C rating. 2150mAh x 20C = 43,000. So the maximum recommended discharge rate would be 43,000mA or 43 amps. If your application has a higher amp draw, remember that LiPo cells can be wired in parallel, and with 2 cells in parallel each cell sees half the total current. With 3 cells in parallel, each cell see one third the current.
By wiring packs in a combination of series to get the voltage and parallel to achieve the capacity and individual cell current to an acceptable level, LiPo cells can be used to power nearly every type and size of model. 


Charging
Charging LiPo batteries requires a very different charge method than other types of cells. It's imperative to use a charger designed specifically for LiPo batteries, and with most LiPo-specific chargers it's necessary to correctly select the cell count (1, 2 or 3 cells) manually.

RC Nitro Acme Conquistador doing oblivious donuts.MP4

RC Nitro or Electric Model ?

Before purchasing an RC model for the first time, this is one of the most important things you need to ask yourself. Nitro powered cars can be a lot faster and need more driving skills to control. We think nitro rc cars can be a lot more fun and realistic, but there is also more maintenance required because of the nitro engine. If you choose a nitro rc car you will need to be prepared to learn and understand the model and mechanics of basic hobby engines. If you have patience and are looking for a hobby instead of a toy we would recommend an rc nitro car.

Electric powered cars are much simpler and require less maintenance than nitro rc cars . The user simply charges the batteries and runs the car. Very little adjusting is needed. Recommended for beginners who just want to get the model out and use it straight away. Brushless electric rc cars offer faster speeds than normal electric models.

Ansmann 1/8th Terrier 2 RC Nitro Truggy

Product Code : 114000007 

Our Price £234.96

 

Are you looking for a special off-road challenge?
Then the Terrier is what you need. A high-performance, high-rpm engine provides the necessary power under the hood on all terrains. This stadium truck is not shy of incredible speeds and long jumps!

Numerous adjustment options such as camber, track, shock characteristics and more let you achieve optimum racing performance with the Terrier on any track. On cross-country runs or spectacular jumps - the Terrier is in its element.

Fast, powerful and ready anytime and anywhere - the Terrier brings loads of driving excitement and action both off-road and on-road!

Features/Equipment
Pre-assembled vehicle
Pre-installed, ready-to-run RC system
Metal geared steering servo 6 kg
Pivot ball system f/r

Adjustable camber/track/caster action
Full-time prop 4WD for max acceleration
3.5 ccm AR-21R Force engine with pull start
3-shoe racing clutch
Hardened drive shafts
3 mm aluminium chassis (T6)
Vented, adjustable disc brake
Splash-proof RC box
Maintenance-free, gasket-sealed differentials
Aluminium oil shocks
Rear chassis brace
17 mm standard hex wheel hub
Performance enhancing exhaust system
Adjustable spoiler for more contact pressure
Pre-glued tyre set
Pre-designed body with decals
Steel spur gear

Requires
Fuel with16 to 25 % nitro

Glow plug
Glow Starter or starter set
Glow wrench (Included in a starter set)
Fuel filler bottle (Included in a starter set)
8 AA cells for the transmitter
AA cells for the receiver

Latest Edition to my own RC model Collection

After watching You Tube videos of this model and customers giving it such a big thumbs up, i've got to admit, this 1/16th RC Truggy grabbed my attention and being a Traxxas Model i was sure it wasn't going to disappoint me!  Well it certainly didn't and i can highly recommend it, hence i've posted the video below, just for a taster :)

ultimate landing e-revo vxl 1/16

Welcome to Sri Remote Toys Blog

Our online shop www.sriremotetoys.co.uk has been up and open for over 5 years and we're pleased to finally get a blog up and running.  We're hoping to share news, info, updates and generally anything RC related.